Smokies Vacation Day 1-3

This vacation was a long time coming.  I think it was last year around this time that Alex (my partner) and I were able to steal away for a week to go and do something fun!  We started planning early December:

Text from Alex: "You should request off January 23rd-31st"

My reply: "Why?"

Text from Alex: "I dunno.  Let's go do something.  Backpacking in the smokies?"

My reply: "Hell yes!!!!!"

About a week later, after I handed in my request and as our activity decision was sinking in, I began to have my doubts...  Oh lord, middle of winter in the mountains?  It's going to be snowy, icy, FREEZING and I had acclimated nicely to Florida by considering 70 degree weather "chilly."  Why couldn't we just fly to Puerto Rico and camp on the beach??

After some back and forth about our potential plans, we decided to stick with winter camping in Smoky Mountain National Park.  I purchased a trail guide book from REI and began searching for some fun trails and well reputed campsites.  Growing up in Pennsylvania prepared me for similar weather we could expect to encounter, and backpacking around the Pacific Northwest helped to give me the knowledge about what we may need to pack.  I had never truly gone backpacking in the dead of winter before, but luckily I had good broken in boots that I could trust and a backpack I knew like the back of my hand (I imagine in a crisis this would help somehow...?).  Alex purchased snow chains and did a thorough inspection and maintenance of his truck.  I purchased a floating windproof/waterproof butane lighter, chains that slip over our boots in case of icy trail conditions and ready-made meals that only require a couple cups of hot water and a fifteen minute wait until you can eat them.  We purchased backcountry camping permits and told our families our itinerary in case of an emergency.  Winter weather can be very dangerous and we wanted to be prepared for everything!

Day 1)  The time finally came to leave!  Saturday morning I packed up at the market and we began driving north.  Our mutual disgust with Atlanta traffic lead us to take I-95.  It was a great decision!  

We decided to stop for the night just outside of Savannah, GA at Skidaway Island State Park.  The park was nestled between nice housing developments and had plenty of space for each campsite.  Because it was winter most of the campground was empty, but the few that populated the park had RVs.  We spent the evening in downtown Savannah and ate dinner at a great rustic place on the main drag of historic section along the riverfront called The Cotton Exchange.  The walls were brick and had large exposed wooden beams and details.  The food was good and fairly priced.

Day 2)  After driving half of the day, it was time to scout out a place to spend the night.  Approaching the mountains, the temperature dropped.  All the campgrounds we called were either closed for the winter season or out of commission due to ice and snow.  We decided to stay in Asheville, NC.  I had a few friends that used to live there and heard it was like an east coast Portland.  I was able to find an affordable hotel and we spend the night walking around downtown.  We noticed all the bohemian-type shops (mostly products from Nepal and the Himalayas) and great cuisine options (too bad we weren't hungry!)

Day 3)   We made sure to eat a good breakfast and take a hot shower.  We spent most of the daylight hours driving.  Our plans were to drive us into the middle of the park and sleep at the beginning of the trail we intended to hike the next day.  Our only true touristy stop along the way was at Bearmeats Indian Den - a small indian-owned craft/supply store on the Cherokee Indian Reservation just outside the National Park.  They sold everything from oils, animal skins and furs to homemade jams and hunting tools (bows, knives, etc).  There was a particular artist there that caught my eye named Robby Bowman.  He made knives out of reclaimed materials such as railroad ties, leaf springs, horse shoes, and saw blades!  (I purchased one of the railroad tie knives!)

My new Robby Bowman knife! (made of a reclaimed RR tie)

Cougar skin (with claws!)

Finally we made it to Smoky Mountain National Park!  I had been receiving updates on my phone about the weather in the area, and it was starting to look like the weather was against us.  Once we reached the Oconaluftee Visitor Center, our fears were confirmed: RD 441 through the park was closed.  Actually, all the roads in the park were closed!  We resigned and set up camp at the Smokemont Campground just up the road from the Visitor Center.  

On the way into the park, we saw our first wildlife- a gaggle of turkeys

Before the sun began to set, we decided to go on a quick out-and-back hike located a short distance from the campground.  But alas!  When I pulled out my shoelaces to clean my boots, I failed to realize my shoelaces wouldn't fit back into the lacing parts.  Luckily Alex brought along some rope and I was able to fashion some make-shift laces!  Most of the hike we walked next to a nice little babbling creek.  Along the way, we were able to learn what clothing would be best suitable for hiking in 20 degree weather.  We quickly shed our down jackets and as we reached a ridge line we even shed our fleece jackets and were down to our base layers.  

Back at camp, we realized we were the only ones camping in the Smokemont Campground.  There wasn't another car in sight.  It wasn't a big deal, just a little creepy but nice at the same time.  The campground was ours!  Alex chopped up wood for a fire, and I picked out our dinner: Thai Chicken for the entree and Creme Brûlée for dessert - both from Backpacker's Pantry.  Afterwards, we burrowed into the mountain of blankets in the back of the truck and went to sleep.

surprisingly good!

Next week I'll be sure to share the remaining days of our trip.  :)  Have a great and happy weekend!